Tuesday 31 July 2007

Bobblehead Backpackers in Machupichu

..Peru Rails prime rail line is serviced by a train that woiuld not look out of place on Thomas the Tank-engine. Decorated in an ancient blue the cars are extraordinarily dated. There is a certain charm to them and thankfully the seats are modern, it is a 4 hour ride from Cusco to the Pichu, involving 4 switchbacks( a rail term, for steep inclines ) a pissed of steward with fantastic moustache (enough said) and cruched leg room. The ride itself was slightly sadistic, whenever the the jolted, we did, whenever it wobbled so did we. Every little bump was felt through the arse of the seat. Bobblehead Backpackers all. But when you see the scenery of the Sacred Valley snail by you forget what little comfort there is. A valley of ruins and rivers. At the end of which stands Aguas Calientes(AKA MachuPicchu Pueblo ) a tourist mecca which thankfully cannot get any uglier because Pachumama (Mother Earth) won´t allow it. It´s sandwiched in by cliffs and rivers...........
4am is not my favourite time, unless I am still out which is acceptable. To rise to go and see a bunch of crumbling stones doesn´t make sense. To do it by choice well that is perhaps stupidity.
....I stumbled through the entrance. Huge terraces stepped up to my left in what is thought was an experimental farm. I wandered straight, unsure of what was what. My guide led me to an empty terrace. Even though it was already bright the sun had not hit the ruins. As it peaked over a mountain tangent rays hit them in different spots. People snapped. My guide dragged me through time, ruins and sleep for two hours. Winding streets, observatories and temples where explained. We wrestled past other bigger tour groups complete with US tang, struggling to get a decent spot anywhere. Thousands were there. After my guide left I hiked off to the Inkas Bridge. I walked for an hour in seclusion. Only the river accompanying me and the shadow of MachuPicchu (Old Mountain). The air cooled my nostrils and the trek is exposed to sudden drops to the valley 1000ft below. It was solitary and stunning. Afterwards I walked up to an old Inka Gate were the famous Inka trail ends. Skilfully passing tourits with walking sticks with the agility of an obese mountain goat. The view as I turned to see Machu Picchu is stunning. A mountain top city surrounded by high mountains covered in dense foliage. No wonder this place was lost, nature can so quickly overtake here.......
Hiram Bingham ¨discovered" Machu Picchu in 1910ish. (This is not about the dates) Upon his discovery he found a Peruvian persons name wrote inside one of the dwellings dated 10 years earlier. Like a decent man he erased his name and returned the following year with an expedition party. This man thought of the locals. He paid them one Sole for every body they dug up., In turn the locals destroyed much of the ruin. He maintained he never found gold or silver while excavating tombs etc. Yet some turned up in his native USA and are housed in Yale. (The Peruvian Govt have requested them back, they have yet to get a reply) This man should tell you one thing. NEVER TRUST AN ACADEMIC.

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