Tuesday 7 August 2007

At The Copacabana, on the road to La Paz

Bolivia, Country No. 9
.....La Fiesta deVirgen de Copacabana fell on the weekend I arrived there. It proved to be a somewhat costly for accomodation but still silly cheap. The streets thronged with markets and people selling dried out llama foetus and gigantic bags of popcorn. I took a deep breath and began to climb Cerro Calvaria. The traditional climb over this festival, marked by giant concrete crosses. The stations. Stalls lined the lung busting climb selling fake money (for offerings) and toy cars (to be blessed). I reached the first cross panting. Locals dressed respectfully threw small pebbles on the cross as an offering, then quietly prayed for a moment before moving on to the next one. Along the way blind men and cripples begged for money to ease their pain. At the top fireworks went off as priests of joint Christian and Inca beliefs performed blessings. The ceremony involved a stuffed armadillo, incense, a toy of the object and a couple of bottles of beer to spray and drink in celebration. It was at this point my two cohorts, Lisa and Rich decided they needed a better vantage point for a photo so we climbed around the edge of the mountain. A smell struck deep in my sinus. It was excrement. Human. This side of the mountain was strictly baño for pilgrims. And I stood right in it.........
......Isla del Sol is a serene island and the birthplace of the first Incans. It is also home to a set of stairs that should not be attempted at this altitude with a backpack on. Lake Titicaca lies at 3800m above sea level. The steps on this island took me a further 100 m up. But it was worth the struggle of near collapse. The stars shone majestically during the night clearly marking the Milky-way. The quietness immense. Then the sun rose above snow capped peaks on the Andes,.Fire ringed clouds occasionally became fully consumed as the sun forces upwards. The light reflected off the lake as donkeys and birds woke up. As the disc climbed over the highest peak it became impossible to watch, the sun burning my eyes........
...After 2 boats, one bus and an immigration check I found myself on a vast Antiplano. It seemed we were going nowhere until the most amazing view came into sight. This flat expanse is at over 4000m. La Paz is in a valley that resembles a gigantic hole. A thriving city that you almost fall into. Stunning. And chaotic.
Off on the Death Road tomorrow. After

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